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Your Color Palette

Deep Winter vs True Winter

The deciding axis is undertone: Deep Winter is the warm one and True Winter is the cool one.

Side by side

The deciding axis is undertone — everything else about these two is close.

Deep Winter

moderately cool, strongly deep and moderately bright

UndertoneCool
CoolWarm
DepthVery deep
DeepLight
ClaritySlightly bright
SoftBright

True Winter

strongly cool, moderately deep and bright

UndertoneVery cool
CoolWarm
DepthDeep
DeepLight
ClarityBright
SoftBright

The test that settles it

Do this in daylight, with no makeup, looking at your skin rather than at the fabric.

Deep Winter: Ruby #8E0B3A

True Winter: True red #D50000

Hold each colour under your chin in turn. The right one settles your skin — shadows under the eyes recede and the face looks rested. The wrong one pulls those shadows forward and adds a grey or sallow cast. If you cannot see a difference, you are probably between the two, which is common and covered below.

Deep Winter palette

  • Ruby#8E0B3A
  • Deep crimson#A4133C
  • Wine#6A0F49
  • Deep violet#4A148C
  • Royal purple#38006B
  • Indigo#311B92
  • Sapphire#0D47A1
  • Deep cobalt#01579B
  • Deep teal#006064
  • Pine emerald#00695C

True Winter palette

  • True red#D50000
  • Cool fuchsia#C51162
  • Vivid purple#AA00FF
  • Royal violet#6200EA
  • Cobalt#304FFE
  • True blue#2962FF
  • Bright sapphire#0091EA
  • Cool turquoise#00B8D4
  • Cool emerald#00BFA5
  • Pine teal#00897B

Frequently asked

What is the difference between Deep Winter and True Winter?

The deciding axis is undertone: Deep Winter is the warm one and True Winter is the cool one. Deep Winter is moderately cool, strongly deep and moderately bright; True Winter is strongly cool, moderately deep and bright. Everything else about them is close enough that the wrong call still looks acceptable — which is precisely why so many people sit between the two.

How do I tell whether I am Deep Winter or True Winter?

Test the deciding axis in isolation. Put ruby (#8E0B3A) beside true red (#D50000) against your bare face in daylight, and look at the skin under your eyes and around your mouth rather than at the fabric. One of them will settle your skin and the other will pull shadows forward.

What if both palettes look fine on me?

Then you are genuinely in between, and you should take the overlap. Wear the colours that appear in both palettes as your core wardrobe, and treat each season's extremes as occasional. Being between two neighbouring seasons is common and is not a failure of the system — it is what the boundaries look like from close up.

Which is more common, Deep Winter or True Winter?

Neither is rare. Judging by search interest, Deep Winter is looked up more often — but that reflects how often people are told they might be one, not how many actually are.

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